Our 3D2N Nature Safari began with a bus trip from Paganakan dii. We stopped off at one or two other places for a toilet and food break and more passenger pick ups. The roads were ok, travelling past plenty of Palm oil plantations. My memory is hazy on the exact length of time we travelled, just over a couple of hours I guess. Our travelling tribe was well behaved and some even managed to catch up with a little snooze time. The bus dropped us off at a little jetty, directly opposite the Nature Lodge Kinabatangan, where we were to stay. It is situated on the Lower Kinabatangan River Sanctuary. A quick boat ride across and we were ready to check in. We had booked ourselves into the dormitory accomodation as there were too many of us to fit into a cabin and working out who got to sleep in Poppa's room seemed like a recipe for fights. As the Nature Lodge wasn't fully booked we ended up with 2 dormitory rooms side by side. By the time it was bed time everyone was too exhausted to fight who was in whos room so all in all it worked out.
Check in and debriefing complete we settled our things into our rooms, freshened up a bit and were ready for a quick cup of tea and on to the boat for the first cruise down the river. Over the total of our stay we did four cruises down the river, they were early morning and afternoon cruises. The guides/boat drivers had keen eyes and were quickly able to spot animals of all different sizes to point out to us.
Birds and monkeys in abundance, crocodiles lazing on the river banks, even a snake curled up on a branch. The Proboscis monkeys are endemic to Borneo and funny looking creatures they are. The dominant male is the monkey with the most prominent nose. Most of the many different species of monkeys head up into the treetops on the rivers edge, considered the safest place from predators at night. The evening cruises were spent watching the wildlife settling into their resting spots in the fading light. The mornings were spent boating down the river with a low hanging mist gradually rising for us to be greeted by the morning sun and the animals getting ready to make a move for the day.For the most part, the kids enjoyed the trips up the river spotting all the wildlife. However, by the last trip (early morning) we did get a little feedback in the form of, "why are we going up the river again?"

Along with the boating up the river, there were night jungle walks and a day walk through the jungle to an oxbow lake to do. As the kids had caught up on some sleep on the bus trip to the lodge we decided if we were going to fit in the night jungle walk at all then that would be the day to do it. I am glad we managed to take them along. Even with all the excitement of being up late and in the dark they managed to keep quiet enough for us to see the funny looking and vulnerable Western Tarsier.
Our walk to the oxbow lake was a mosquito infested walk through the jungle. Even with mosquito repellant layered on thickly and the very fashionable football socks pulled up high (a potential leech deterrent) the moment we stood still for a few seconds we were swarmed. Just from my minimal exposure in the jungle on a fairly tame track I developed a better appreciation for what soldiers experienced and our walk was a dry one easy one with shelter, food and showers readily available! I really can't imagine how difficult survival would have been for them.Check in and debriefing complete we settled our things into our rooms, freshened up a bit and were ready for a quick cup of tea and on to the boat for the first cruise down the river. Over the total of our stay we did four cruises down the river, they were early morning and afternoon cruises. The guides/boat drivers had keen eyes and were quickly able to spot animals of all different sizes to point out to us.
The lake itself was peaceful. We took a short break, fed some fish and then headed back to the lodge. Libby and Sam both enjoying a ride in the ergo carriers on the way back, tiring out Steve and I.
On our trip back to Kota Kinabalu we opted into an additional side trip to see the Gomatong Cave. Unlike many limestone caves, the attraction to this system is not amazing stalagmites and stalactites. The swiftlet population that is the drawcard here. Initially when I started planning this holiday, our travel time coincided with birds nest harvesting season. So the trip to Gomatong cave was high on the list. While it wasn't harvesting season when we managed to get there I am glad we made the detour all the same. The section we walked through is fairly easy to access, about a 45 minute well marked walk through the forest to the entrance. Past a small communal dwelling with a couple of families and some goats. As it was low season our blonde family certainly made an impression. Our guide told us the number of people living there ebbs and flows with the harvesting season. Some live there all year round as the birds nests are extremely valuable and poaching can be an issue. We arrived to an impressive cathedral like chamber, complete with board walk, piles of guano, cockroaches and centipedes to navigate. The smell, overpowering is an understatement! Zac certainly wasn't a big fan and it did make it hard to spend too much time standing in awe at the sheer size of the cavern. While the piles of guano was offensive to our noses, it acts as an important safety feature for anyone harvesting the nests on the walls and extremely high ceiling of the cavern should they slip. It is hard to imagine just how precarious the men harvesting the nests look. No safety harnesses, homemade bamboo scaffolding and vine ladders. A quick google or youtube video search shows up some examples. As when we were there the ladders were all safely rolled up and stowed away under the cover of the dwellings. Both white and black swiftlets nests are harvested here, the white nest being the cleaner and more valuable of the two.
After our visit to the cave, we headed back to our transport detouring to clean our smelly shoes. From there we travelled back to Sandakan airport, arriving a little too early for our liking as there is not a lot to do to pass the time there. When we finally got to a wet and dreary looking KK to jump into a taxi and find that the accommodation I had booked near the airport was a new condo in a fairly residential area (read not much around). The owner who was meant to pass us the key answered the phone once, didn't speak any English and then barred our call. We eventually managed to cancel and contact the place we stayed at on our arrival into Kota Kinabalu. Tired and hungry we dumped our stuff and headed straight back to the Korean restaurant across the road that had been a hit with the kids previously. We enjoyed our final sunset in KK, it was back to Singapore the next day.



